Services

Please ask if your tool is not featured in this list. Chances are that I sharpen it.

Knife Sharpening

Knives are by far the most common item received at Philly Sharp. Here is the technical explantation of what I do to knives: I normally sharpen to 30µm and buff – though I can honor any specific grit choice if the customer asks. I like this method of sharpening best because while a knife that is cutting vegetable needs enough tooth to break the skin cleanly, sharpening with a rough grit will leave a rough edge that quickly breaks down. Sharpening to a medium grit and then softly stropping the micro-teeth that it produces has worked the best for most uses in my testing.

Scissor Sharpening

Scissors are another common item I receive here at Philly Sharp: Scissors are nice because they naturally self-hone. Eventually, though, the edge breaks down, and they must be reground. All scissors are sharpened to 30µm, tightened or loosened to achieve the best feel and function, and oiled.

Garden Tool Sharpening

Garden tools endure rough use, especially with all the grit in dirt and bark. It is very important to have sharp pruners, otherwise the plant can suffer from a ragged cut. Garden tools are filed, ground, and stoned. Oil and a bit of rust removal chemical is generally used to bring your loppers and pruners into slicing action again.

Lawnmower blades are also balanced in addition to being ground. Machetes are honed to a higher grit – similar to my knife sharpening.

Miscellaneous Sharpening

I sharpen rotary blades for fabric cutting. While disposable, they can be pricey, and it is eco-friendly to reuse them.

We flatten the face of hammers for better registration on nails. This is really a simple job, but if you don't have the tools, we are happy to do it for you.

Most woodworking tools can be sharpened, and this includes chisels, planes, drawknives, and scrapers. I love sharpening woodworking tools, and it is something I do regularly for my own tools.

Rust Removal and Deep Clean

Rust removal jobs are a wide-ranging subject, so they have to be assessed when you bring the tool. A chemical is used to strip the rust and then I rinse, clean, and oil.

Retuning

This section includes most tools, especially tools with multiple components. Bring the tool over and I can take a look!

Wooden Cutting Board Resurfacing

Cutting boards that have years of scratches can be ugly and unsafe (because of the bacteria that can lodge in the gouges). Cutting boards can only be resurfaced if they are wooden. I try to take off the least amount of material with sandpaper and planes while still taking out scratches. Thicker (7/8''+) cutting boards are better candidates for this process. Reducing the amount of material on cutting boards contains some risk. Please understand that Philly Sharp does not guarantee there will be no bacteria in the surface afterwards, nor do we guarantee it is impossible for the cutting board to warp or crack after thinning. We try to minimize the risk by taking off as little material as we can. Wood is a hydrophilic material, so it is hard to predict.

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Consultation

I offer 45 minute online or in-person sessions for people who want to learn how to sharpen or have burning questions about their technique. Please fill out our form if you are interested, and I will get back to you via email.

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